The Heat of the Day

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In Kolkata, I met a man on Park Street who said to me: “You must go to the Botanical Gardens. Today is a very auspicious day. If you touch the Banyan Tree with your right hand, you can make 2 …

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Sunday in the Park

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If it’s Sunday afternoon and you’re in Kolkata, there’s really only one place to be. That’s the Maidan, the big green expanse that stretches down from Eden Gardens to the Race Course, and across from the Hooghly river to the …

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Good Friday – Holi, Holi, Holi

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The streets of Kolkata were eerily quiet as my taxi sped into town from the airport. Empty streets, boarded-up stalls, only the occasional pedestrian: was this ghost town really the city I remembered from ’94 as a seething mass of …

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