I Will and I Won’t: Travel Resolutions for 2015


I Will Not… 1. Use Hire (Rental) Cars as an extension of my luggage No longer will I unload my luggage into my hire car until maps, guidebooks, camera accessories and socks (why is it always socks?!) fill the back …

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Kovalam Scenes


The fruit-sellers grabbed me on the Kovalam strip. I knew I was going to get fleeced the moment I sat down (NEVER sit down). Once they started telling me how special I was, I realised I was a total goner. …

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The Heat of the Day


In Kolkata, I met a man on Park Street who said to me: “You must go to the Botanical Gardens. Today is a very auspicious day. If you touch the Banyan Tree with your right hand, you can make 2 …

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Cafe Culture


It won’t surprise you to know that I’ve tracked down the best coffee in Guwahati (the largest city in Assam). Cafe Coffee Day is part of a chain catering to India’s new youth, and they do a pretty mean espresso. …

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An Early Morning


I was awake at 4.18am. The animal noises and birdsong made it almost impossible to go back to sleep. At 6.30am I ventured outside. It had rained overnight and the sky was still grey. Children were splashing barefoot through the …

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In a Dive Bar


One of the problems with being a solo female traveller in India is that so few bars are welcoming, at least not if you don’t want to be ogled, harassed and propositioned within 5 minutes of taking a seat. So, …

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